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The eye area is often one of the first areas that we notice ageing on the face. People often complain of “dark circles” or of “looking tired” or having “tired eyes” even when they feel fresh! There are several factors involved in this process and it’s important to address these in a holistic way. The skin becomes thinner and more fragile as we age- as it loses the natural stores of elastin and collagen. It also holds less moisture. This leads to fine lines, wrinkles, crepey texture, skin laxity and makeup caking. A retinoid eye cream can help to tackle these issues. The Inkey List Retinol Eye Cream and Beauty of Joseon Revive Eye Serum with Ginseng and Retinal are great options. Pigmentation, visible blood vessels from thinner skin and shadows from volume loss can lead to the appearance of dark circles. Treatment with periorbital Polynucleotides (Plinest) injections work at a cellular level to regenerate the skin in this area leading to thicker, healthier skin with improved elasticity and collagen. Smiling, laughing and squinting are all important parts of living our lives but, cumulatively over time, they can lead to the appearance of crow’s feet. Treatment with Botulinum Toxin can help smooth and soften fine lines around the eye whilst preventing new ones forming. The bones of the face, around the eye and cheek, slowly shrink with age. This leads to less support for the fat and skin in this area which can result in a sunken, hollow appearance and increased shadowing. Appropriate use of precise dermal filler in the cheek can help to restore structural and volume loss in the face, improving the support to the under eye area and counteract hollowness. Puffiness can be as a result of poor lymphatic drainage or herniation of fat pads. Excess skin and heavy brows can lead to a hooded eyelid appearance. Plastic/Oculoplastic Surgery may be necessary to surgically improve this appearance. As you can see, a one size fits all approach doesn’t work here! A thorough consultation is important to assess skin quality, muscle movement, volume loss, fluid retention and facial proportion and framework to agree together the most appropriate treatment plan. We would be delighted to see you to achieve your aesthetic goals moving forward. Book your consultation or email fionasteedman@gmail.com to enquire.

Let’s talk about Collagen The building block of our skin It’s one of the biggest buzz words in the Aesthetics world-and for very good reasons… Collagen is the key building-block structural protein keeping our skin youthful, firm and smooth. Here’s the science behind it-and the treatments to optimise it! Collagen is a protein that acts as a scaffolder in the skin. It provides: Firmness Elasticity Strength Smooth texture It works alongside Elastin (for stretch) and Hyaluronic Acid (for hydration) to maintain a healthy, youthful appearance. As long as collagen levels remain high, the skin will look plump and resilient. The bad news? Collagen starts to decline from around age 25. Production naturally peaks in your late teens and early twenties. From the mid twenties, the body starts to produce 1-1.5% less collagen per year.  This is a normal (sadly) part of ageing but can be accelerated by UV exposure, Alcohol, Smoking, Stress, Pollution, Poor sleep and poor diet. How quickly do we lose collagen? On average: After 25: 1-1.5% loss per year After 40: collagen production drops more rapidly After 50 and post menopause: up to 30% collagen loss in the first 5 years due to reduced oestrogen levels. These biological processes explained why people start to notice visible ageing in their 30s with a more dramatic change in their 40’s and 50’s.  The good news: can collagen loss be delayed or reversed? The answer is YES! Ok so we cant stop the biological ageing but we CAN significantly slow collagen depletion and stimulate new collagen production. Here’s what works: – Daily SPF THE most powerful anti-ageing product bar none is a broad spectrum SPF, ideally SPF 50. Daily use protects against UV-induced collagen breakdown and prevents premature ageing. – Active Skincare  Retinoids: increase cell turnover and collagen production Vitamin C: antioxidant that protects collagen and supports formation Hyaluronic Acid: improves hydration which enhances collagen’s structural environment Peptides: signalling molecules that encourage collagen regeneration   – Aesthetic treatments Modern aesthetic medicine offers several highly effective collagen-stimulating treatments: Microneedling with SkinPenTM: thousands of controlled microchannels are produced in the skin with very fine needles. This microtrauma stimulates collagen production Polynucleotides with PlinestTM: regenerative injectables working at the cellular level to repair damaged tissue and stimulate collagen and elastin ProfhiloTM Skin booster: a concentrated Hyaluronic Acid injectable that improves hydration and elasticity whilst stimulating collagen and elastin Dermal Fillers with TeoxaneTM:    At Dr Fiona Steedman Aesthetics, we specialise in a “skin first” approach and provide personalised treatment plans designed to rejuvenate the skin safely and scientifically. Ready to book a consultation? Click the website lin at wwww.drfionasteedman.co.uk or whatsapp. Follow for more evidence-based beauty and tips on Instagram @drfionasteedmanaesthetics

If you’re looking to achieve brighter, smoother and more youthful-looking skin, Vitamin C is one of the most effective ingredients you can add to your skincare routine. It’s a dermatologist-favourite antioxidant that helps protect, repair and rejuvenate the skin-but not all Vitamin C products are created equal. In this guide, we’ll explore what Vitamin C is, the benefits it offers, the different types and strengths available, and how to use it correctly for radiant, healthy skin. What Is Vitamin C and How Does It Work in Skincare? Vitamin C (also known as ascorbic acid) is a powerful antioxidant that naturally occurs in our skin. It helps neutralise damage from free radicals- unstable molecules caused by UV exposure, pollution and stress-which contribute to premature ageing. When applied topically, Vitamin C supports collagen production, reduces pigmentation and gives skin a luminous, even-toned glow. However, as we age, our skin’s natural Vitamin C levels decline. That’s where a well-formulated Vitamin C serum comes in-replenishing those levels and strengthening the skin’s defence barrier. The Key Benefits of Vitamin C in Skincare Brightens and evens skin tone Vitamin C helps fade dark spots, sun damage and post-inflammatory pigmentation, revealing a clearer, more even complexion. Boosts collagen production By stimulating collagen synthesis, Vitamin C helps maintain skin firmness and elasticity, reducing fine lines and wrinkles over time. Protects against environmental stress Its antioxidant properties protect skin from daily exposure to UV rays and pollution, preventing dullness and premature ageing. Improves skin texture and hydration Regular use can smooth the skin’s surface and enhance moisture retention, giving a healthy, dewy glow. Different Types of Vitamin C in Skincare There are several forms of Vitamin C used in cosmetic formulations-each with different stability and skin benefits. L-Ascorbic Acid-The purest and most potent form of Vitamin C. Highly effective but can be unstable if not formulated correctly. Best for experienced users or those with normal to oily skin. Ascorbyl Glucoside / Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate-More stable derivatives that are gentler on sensitive skin while still delivering brightening and antioxidant benefits. Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate- A water-soluble form ideal for dry or sensitive skin, known for its hydrating and anti-inflammatory properties.   Your skin type and tolerance will determine which form suits you best. Understanding Strengths of Vitamin C The concentration of Vitamin C in skincare usually ranges from 5% to 20%: 5-10% -Suitable for sensitive or reactive skin types. Provides gentle antioxidant protection and gradual brightening. 10-15% -A balanced strength for most skin types, offering visible brightening and anti-ageing results. 15-20% -High-strength serums for experienced users, delivering intensive results but potentially more irritation.   Consistency is more important than concentration -daily use of a well-formulated product often achieves better long-term benefits than occasional use of a high-strength formula. How to Use Vitamin C in Your Skincare Routine Use a morning applicationVitamin C works best when applied in the morning after cleansing and before moisturiser and SPF. It enhances sun protection and shields against environmental stress. Layer sensiblyAvoid using strong acids or retinoids at the same time to reduce irritation. If you use both, apply Vitamin C in the morning and retinol at night. Store correctlyVitamin C can oxidise and lose potency when exposed to light or air. Choose serums in dark glass bottles or air-tight packaging and store them in a cool, dry place. Be patientImprovements in brightness and texture are typically visible after 4-8 weeks of consistent use. So… Vitamin C is a powerhouse ingredient that belongs in almost every skincare routine. Whether your goal is to brighten dull skin, smooth fine lines, or protect against environmental damage, a high-quality Vitamin C serum can make a visible difference. Personally, the GOAT for me is SkinCeuticals CE Ferulic but it’s very expensive…ELF have brought out a very similar formulation! Currently, I’m using Nip and Fab Vitamin C Fix which has a great price point. Elizabeth Arden Vitamin C Ceramide Capules are also lovely to use but at the higher price point too.

What Are Retinoids? Retinoids are vitamin A derivatives that are among the most researched and effective ingredients in skincare.  They help improve skin texture, tone, and firmness, while reducing the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and pigmentation. Retinoids work by increasing cell turnover, regulating sebum production and boosting collagen, making them a cornerstone in both anti-ageing and acne treatment skincare routines. Types of Retinoids: Retinol, Retinal, and Prescription Forms Not all retinoids are created equal. They come in different forms and strengths depending on how they are converted to retinoic acid, the active form that your skin cells can use. 1. Retinol Retinol is the most widely used over-the-counter retinoid. It’s effective but gentle enough for most skin types. Once applied, your skin converts retinol → retinal → retinoic acid, which is why it works more slowly than prescription versions. Best for: Beginners or those with sensitive skin. Benefits of Retinol: Reduces fine lines and wrinkles Improves uneven skin tone and texture Helps clear mild acne Promotes smoother, radiant skin 2. Retinal (Retinaldehyde) Retinal is one step closer to retinoic acid, making it faster-acting and more potent than retinol-yet still suitable for most skin types. It delivers visible improvements in skin firmness, tone, and clarity with less irritation compared to prescription-strength tretinoin. Benefits of Retinal: Works up to 11 times faster than retinol Reduces pigmentation and fine lines Improves skin elasticity Has antibacterial properties-ideal for acne-prone skin Best for: Those who’ve already used retinol and want stronger results without prescription irritation.   3. Prescription Retinoids (Tretinoin, Adapalene, Tazarotene) These forms are pure retinoic acid or close derivatives that act immediately on the skin. They offer the most dramatic results but can cause redness, dryness, and flaking, especially during the initial “retinisation” phase. Best for: Advanced users or under professional guidance for treating acne, pigmentation, or significant photoageing. How Retinoids Work Retinoids act on a cellular level to: Increase cell turnover, replacing dull, damaged cells with fresh, new ones Stimulate collagen and elastin production, improving skin firmness Regulate sebum (oil) production, reducing breakouts Fade hyperpigmentation and sun damage over time How to Introduce Retinoids Safely Retinoids are powerful-so it’s important to start slowly and use them correctly. Tips for Safe Use: Start low and go slow: Begin with a gentle formula (like retinol 0.25–0.5%) two nights per week. Apply on dry skin: Moisture increases penetration, which can cause irritation. Moisturise generously: Use a nourishing cream to support your skin barrier. Always wear SPF 50: Retinoids make your skin more sun-sensitive. Be patient: It can take 8–12 weeks to see visible results. Retinal vs Retinol: Which Should You Choose? Feature Retinol Retinal (Retinaldehyde) Potency Moderate Higher Conversion Steps 2 (to retinoic acid) 1 (to retinoic acid) Speed of Results Slower Faster Irritation Risk Low Mild Best For Beginners, sensitive skin Experienced users If you’re new to retinoids, start with retinol. If you want quicker results and have already built tolerance, upgrade to retinal for a stronger effect. The Future of Retinoids in Regenerative Dermatology Retinoids are more than cosmetic-they play a key role in regenerative skin health.  Modern formulations are increasingly combining retinoids with: Peptides for enhanced collagen synthesis Antioxidants like niacinamide and vitamin E for barrier protection Encapsulation technology for controlled release and reduced irritation These innovations are helping patients enjoy the rejuvenating benefits of retinoids with fewer side effects. When to Seek Professional Guidance If you’re unsure which retinoid is right for your skin-or if you’ve experienced irritation, redness, or persistent dryness-it’s best to consult your doctor.. A tailored skincare plan ensures you achieve optimal results while maintaining a healthy skin barrier. In Summary Retinoids remain the gold standard for skin renewal and anti-ageing. Whether you choose retinol for a gentle start or retinal for a faster, more potent effect, consistent and guided use can transform your skin’s texture, clarity, and youthfulness.

When it comes to glowing, healthy-looking skin, exfoliation is key.  But forget harsh scrubs-the most effective exfoliants today are chemical acids, particularly AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids) and BHAs (beta hydroxy acids).  You’ll find these ingredients in everything from cleansers to serums and professional peels- but what exactly do they do, and which one should you choose? Let’s break it down. What Are AHAs and BHAs? Both AHAs and BHAs are chemical exfoliants that help to remove dead skin cells from the surface of the skin. Unlike physical exfoliators (which use gritty particles to manually scrub the skin), these acids dissolve the bonds that hold dead cells together- revealing a fresher, smoother complexion underneath. AHAs are water-soluble, meaning they work on the skin’s surface. BHAs are oil-soluble, so they can penetrate deeper into the pores to help clear congestion and excess sebum. Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) AHAs are derived mainly from fruits, milk, and sugar cane.  They’re best suited to dry, dull, or sun-damaged skin because they improve texture and brightness while helping with fine lines and pigmentation. Common Types of AHAs Glycolic Acid Derived from sugar cane The smallest AHA molecule, meaning it penetrates deeply Excellent for improving skin tone, texture, and collagen stimulation Lactic Acid Sourced from milk or fermented sugar Gentler than glycolic acid Ideal for sensitive skin or first-time acid users Helps hydrate while exfoliating Mandelic Acid Derived from bitter almonds Larger molecule = slower penetration Great for sensitive or acne-prone skin Known to refine pores and even out pigmentation Citric Acid Found in citrus fruits Often used to adjust pH or add antioxidant benefits Helps brighten dull skin Malic Acid From apples and pears Often used in combination with other AHAs for a smoother finish Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs) BHAs work below the surface of the skin, making them perfect for oily, acne-prone, or congested skin types. Because they are oil-soluble, they can penetrate the pores to break down oil and debris, reducing blackheads and blemishes. Common Types of BHAs Salicylic Acid The most well-known BHA (derived from willow bark) Unclogs pores and reduces oiliness Has anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties Helps calm redness and treat acne Betaine Salicylate A gentler, plant-derived alternative to salicylic acid Provides mild exfoliation with less irritation Suitable for sensitive skin Can You Use AHAs and BHAs Together? Yes-when used correctly! Combining both can offer a more comprehensive exfoliation: AHAs work on the surface, smoothing and brightening. BHAs work deeper, clearing pores and reducing breakouts. However, over-exfoliation can cause sensitivity. If you’re new to acids, start slowly- alternating days or using one at a time-and always use broad-spectrum SPF 50 during the day, as exfoliating acids increase sun sensitivity. The Bottom Line AHAs = Surface exfoliation → brighter, smoother, hydrated skin. BHAs = Deep exfoliation → clearer pores, reduced breakouts, less oil.  Used properly, they can transform the skin’s texture, radiance, and overall health.